soups

CHAPTER XIV: SOUPS

The popularity of soups today may be due to increased nutrition consciousness, due to a desire for simpler lighter meals, or due to an increased appreciation of how appetizing and satisfying soup can be. Whatever the reason, the emphasize the importance of soup making skills. Soup, according to a dictionary, is a liquid food derived from meat, poultry, fish or vegetable or a combination of them.

Classification of Soup

Soups can be classified into three main categories:

1.     Clear or un-thickened Soups

2.     Thick Soups

3.     Specialty and National Soups

Most of these soups, whatever the category, are based on stock. Thus the quality of soup depends upon the skill of stock making.

Clear Soups:

These soups are based on a clear, un-thickened broth or stock. They may be served plain or garnished with a variety of meats and vegetables.

1.     Broth and Bouillon are two terms used in many different ways, but in general they both refer to simple, clear soup without solid ingredients. Broth is the flavorful liquid obtained from simmering meat and/or vegetables, and is often the base for another soup.

2.     Vegetable Soup or cut vegetable soup is a clear, seasoned stock or broth with the addition of one or more vegetables and sometimes meat or poultry products and starch to lightly thicken and give body to the soup.

3.     Consomme is a rich flavorful stock that has been clarified to make it perfectly clear and transparent. Far from being a plain cup of soup, a well-made consommé is considered the greatest of all soups. Its sparkling clarity is a delight to the eye, and its rich, full flavor, strength, and body make it a perfect starter for an elegant dinner.

 

 

 

THICK SOUPS

Unlike clear soups, thick soups are opaque rather than transparent. They are thickened by a thickening agent such as a roux, or by pureeing one of the ingredients to provide a heavier consistency.

1.     Cream Soups are soups that are thickened with roux, beurre manie or liaison. Cream soups are usually named after the main ingredient such as Cream of Chicken or Cream of Tomato.

2.     Purees are soups that are naturally thickened by pureeing one or more of their ingredients. They are not as smooth or creamy as a cream soup. Purees are normally based on starchy ingredients like dried peas or from fresh starchy ingredients like potato. Purees may or may not contain milk or cream.

3.     Bisques are thickened soups made from shellfish. They are usually prepared like cream soups and finished off with cream.

4.     Veloutes are thick soups made with stock, liaison, roux and a flavoring. Are similar to cream soups but are much richer.

5.     Chowders are hearty soups of American origin and are made of fish, shellfish and/or vegetables. Although they are made in different ways, they usually contain milk and potatoes. Processed pork products like ham, bacon or dried sausages are also added. There is also a version based on tomatoes. Cheese also features prominently in chowders.

6.     Potage is a term sometimes associated with thick, hearty soups, but is actually a general term for soup. A clear soup is called potage clair in French.

SPECIALITY AND TRADITIONAL SOUPS:

This a general category for soups that do not fit into any of the previous groups. They are soups that are native to a particular region or country. Cold soups are sometimes categorized as specialty soups. The following are traditional soups from different parts of the world. Find out which countries they come from:

VICHYSOISSE

TURTLE SOUP

OXTAIL SOUP

GAZPACHO

SPINAZIE

MINESTRONE

LINSENSUPPE

MULLIGUTWANNY

BOUILLABAISSE

WATERZOI

GUMBO

BORTSCH

SERVICE OF SOUPS

The standard portion size for soup is 6 to 8 oz. (200 to 250 ml)

Serve hot soups piping hot in soup cups or bowls

Serve cold soups chilled in chilled cups or ideally, nesting in a container of crushed ice.

GARNISH:

Soup garnishes may be divided into three groups:

1.     Garnish in the soup: Major ingredient of the soup such as vegetables, poultry cut into small dices can be considered a garnish. Consommés are normally named after their garnish. Consommé Julienne is garnished with julienne of vegetables.

2.     Toppings: Thick soups are normally decorated with a topping. This could be a simple swirl of cream or chopped parsley, dill leaves of mint. Also included in this category are toasted sliced almonds, croutons, grated cheese, and crumbled bacon. Clear soups are rarely served with a topping.

3.     Accompaniments: Bread rolls, slices and sticks, cheese straws, melba toast, corn chips and cream cracker biscuits are all popular accompaniments for soup along with butter.

Draw a Chart detailing the Classification of Soups and mention examples of each type.

                                        SOUP

________________________________________________________________

                 

vernon coelho

ihm mumbai

2009-10

+CONSOMME

CONSOMME IS A CLARIFIED STOCK. However, when we define consommé, we forget its literal meaning, which is completed or concentrated. In other words, consommé is a strong, concentrated clarified stock. Rule number one for preparing a consommé is that the stock must be strong, rich and concentrated (full-bodied). Clarification is second in importance to strength. A good consommé with a mellow but full aroma and plenty of body from the natural gelatin that you can feel in your mouth, is one of the great pleasures of fine cuisine!

HOW CLARIFICATION WORKS:  

Coagulation of proteins was an important subject in our discussion on stock making, because one of our major concerns was how to keep coagulated proteins from making the stock cloudy. Strangely enough, it is this same process of coagulation that enables us to clarify stock to perfect transparency. Remember some proteins especially that called albumin, will dissolve in cold water. When the water is heated, they gradually solidify or coagulate and rise to the surface. If we control this process very carefully, these proteins will collect all the tiny particles that cloud a stock and will carry them to the surface. The stock is then left perfectly clear. If, on the other hand, we are not careful, these proteins will break up as they coagulate and will cloud the liquid even more, just as they can do when we make stock.

BASIC INGREDIENTS:

The mixture that we use to clarify the stock is called the clearmeat or the clarification.

1.     Lean minced meat is the major source of protein that enables the clearmeat to do its job. It also contributes towards the flavor of the consommé. It must be lean because fat is undesirable in a consommé as it will float on the surface after straining and give a greasy appearance to the soup. Beef shin and shank is the best cut to use as it is rice in albumin proteins as well as in flavor and gelatin, and it is very lean. Chicken meat should be used to clarify chicken stock and beef used for a beef consommé. Obviously, meat would not be used to clarify a fish stock! Although, ground fish meat could be used to clarify fish stock, often it is omitted altogether and only egg whites used in its place.

2.     Egg whites are included in the clearmeat, because being mainly albumin; they greatly strengthen the clarifying power.

3.      

4.     Mirepoix and other seasoning and flavoring ingredients are usually included because they add flavor to the finished consommé. They do not actually help in the clarification process except possibly to give solidity to the raft. The raft is the coagulated clearmeat floating in a solid mass on top of the consommé. The mirepoix must be cut into small pieces as it must float with the raft as well as the maximum exposed surface area will aid extraction of flavor and nutritive value. A larger amount of a particular vegetable may be added if a distinct flavor is called for, for example, celery flavored consommé.

5.     Acidic ingredients like vinegar and tomato for beef and chicken consommé and lemon juice and white wine for fish consommé are added because the acidity helps with the coagulation process.

6.     Seasoning and flavorings like salt, peppercorns and bayleaf are usually added.

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING CONSOMME:

1.     Start with a well flavored and cooled down stock. If the stock is weak, reduce it to concentrate, then allow to cool and then begin. Else, simmer the consommé longer than the recommended time.

2.     Select a heavy stockpot.

3.     Combine the clearmeat ingredients in the stockpot and mix vigorously. Mix in a small amount of water. This allows the proteins, which do the clarifying to dissolve out of the meat. Some chefs will disagree on the importance of this step and will omit it altogether ( the addition of the water, that is).

4.     Gradually add the cool, degreased stock and mix well with the clearmeat. The stock needs to be cool so that it does not cook the proteins on contact. Mixing the clearmeat will distribute the proteins throughout the stock so that they can collect all the impurities more easily.

5.     Set the pot over a full fire and allow it to heat, stirring gently. This prevents the proteins of the egg white from settling at the bottom and burning. Let it come to a boil.

6.     As the stock heats up stop the stirring. As the stock comes to a boil, the clearmeat will rise to the surface as the raft and float on the top.

7.     Reduce the fire to as low as possible so that the liquid maintains a slow simmer. Do not cover the vessel. Boiling would break up the raft and cloud the consommé. The same principle was used in stock making, remember?!

8.     Simmer without disturbing the raft, for about half an hour to 45 minutes.

9.     Strain the consommé carefully through a wet muslin cloth. Do not force the liquid through or press the raft. Or fine particles will seep through and cloud the consommé.

10. Degrease to remove all traces of fat from the surface. Use strips of brown paper to absorb traces of fat.

11. Adjust the seasoning.

EMERGENCY PROCEDURES:

1.     Clarifying hot stock: if you do not have the time to cool the stock properly, at least cool it as much as you can. A cold water bath for even 10 minutes will be helpful. Then mix crushed ice cubes with the clearmeat before adding the stock. This will help to prevent the meat from coagulating when the stock hits it.

2.     Clarifying without meat: In a pinch, you could clarify stock using egg whites alone. Use extra egg whites and a little mirepoix if possible. Make sure that the stock in this case is a good and concentrated one. Care must be taken in this case as the raft is a very fragile one and may tend to break easily. Egg white and mirepoix are often used alone to clarify fish stock.

3.     Failed clarification: If the clarification process has failed because you allowed it to boil to long or for any other reason, it can still be rescued. Strain the consommé and allow it to cool as much as you can. Now slowly add it to a mixture of ice cubes and egg white. Carefully return the pan to a simmer and proceed with the clarification. However, the ice cubes will dilute the stock and this procedure must be used in emergencies only.

4.     Poor color: Beef or Veal consommés made from a brown stock must be amber in color and not dark brown. Chicken consommé will be pale amber. To improve the color, add a drop of caramel after straining, or a cut and browned (on a griddle) slice of onion, before the clarification.

BASIC CONSOMME:

Stock

(Chicken/beef/veal/fish)     1 liter

Lean meat (suitable)          100 GMS

Onion                              30 GMS

Carrot                              30 GMS

Celery                              20 GMS

Egg white                        1-2

(Shell optional)

Vinegar/lemon juice/         15 ml

Wine (red or white) or

Tomato                           20 gm

Peppercorn                      4-6 nos.

Bayleaf                            1 no

Salt                                 a pinch

Vernon coelho

ihm Mumbai

2008-09

ASSIGNMENT:

Find out the traditional garnishes of the following consommés and fill them out as in the first example.

Detach and submit by October 19, 2009______________________.

1.     Consommé julienne: chicken/veal consommé + neatly cut julienne of carrots, turnips and celery, simmered in stock.

2.     Consommé brunoise:

3.     Consommé paysanne:

4.     Consommé royale:

5.     Consommé celestine:

6.     Consommé claremont:

7. Consomme profiteroles:

8. Consomme madrilene:

9. Consomme Carmen:

10. Consomme ambassadrice:

11. Consomme girondine:

12. Consommé grimaldi:

13. Consommé italienne:

14. Consommé caroline:

15. Consommé doria:

16. Consomme demidoff:

16. Consommé jacqueline:

18. Consommé Florentine:

19. Consommé rejane:

20. Consommé zingara:

21. Consommé Xavier:

22. Consommé Printaniere:

23. Consommé vermicelli:

24. Double consommé:

25. Cold jellied consommé:

VERNON COELHO

IHM MUMBAI

2009-10

seasonings n flavourings

SEASONING AND FLAVORING

Eating is essential for life, yet the enjoyment of eating good food is dependent on good flavour. Humans have travelled the globe, often at great risk, in search o fine flavours and methods of preserving foods, seeking, primarily what we refer to as spices. In the thirteenth century, spices were so precious that they were accepted as currency along with gold. Little was known of the trade routes to India and the Middle East at this time. The search for spices and the spice route drove explorers like Columbus and Magellan to travel the seas and discover new continents.

Seasoning can be described as the bringing out of natural tastes that are present in food without drastic alteration to the basic flavour. Salt in its various forms is the basic seasoning agent. There are two types of salt that are available.

Rock salt is mined from deposits on land. This is very coarse in texture and is sold as table salt (with the addition of iodine) or as pickling salt (without iodine).

Sea salt is produced by the evaporation of sea water. Sea salt is an impure salt and can be refined. It contains natural amounts of iodine.

From these two salts are also derived soy and  other flavoured salts. Flavoured salts are refined salts that are combined with other flavourings such as garlic and celery. Flavored salts with a mixture of herbs and spices are also available. There are also naturally flavoured salts that are available in certain parts of the world that are characteristic to that region only. These salts can be used in cooking and also work well in marinades. Soy in its various forms like paste and sauce come from the orient where it is derived from soy beans fermented in a brine. Soy will add seasoning to food to which it is added but will also alter the colour because of its dark appearance.

MSG (mono sodium glutamate) is an example of secondary seasoning. It is the sodium salt of glutamic acid. This is a white powdery/crystalline compound that is produced naturally by both plants and animals and even the human body. MSG, which is commonly used in the kitchen, is produced from an array of products such as seaweed, fish bones and wheat gluten. It is extracted through a process of fermentation and drying. It has only a slightly salty taste of its own. Its purpose is to bring out the natural flavours in the food to which it is added. Even though MSG is sodium, it contains only 1/3^{rd – 1/4th} the sodium of natural salt. It is very common in oriental cooking and if used properly, can reduce the need for salt.

 Flavouring, as opposed to seasoning, is the addition of a new flavour to a food or enhancing the natural taste of the food. Flavourings enhance the natural taste of the food it is added to. This results in an alteration of the natural flavour of the food. The various types of flavouring agents can be categorized as herbs, spices, concentrated flavouring agents, wines/spirits, vinegar and marinades. Without flavours, there will be little distinction between one dish and the next. It is flavour in most cases that defines international cuisine. The chilli of Mexico, the tomato and basil of Italy, the fermented soy of the Orient the myriad of spices of India - all provide strong and distinctive flavours. It will be extremely helpful for the modern chef to be acquainted with the various flavours that are associated with international cuisine. This familiarity along with a working knowledge of seasoning and flavouring principles will enable a chef to use flavours successfully in new and unexpected combinations.

It should be noted here that there are dominant flavours and undertones. The dominant flavours should be limited to one or two elements, such as the main ingredient and one other flavouring agent. Any additional flavour should be subtle, so as not to take away attention from the dominant flavour. A particular recipe may call for five or six spices. One or two of these should be dominant. The others should form a subtle undertone.

Spices

The term spice comes from Latin, which roughly translated means “fruits of the earth.”  Spices, as distinguished from herbs, are derived from various parts of the plant. The bark (cinnamon), buds (clove), the flower (saffron), the fruit (all spice), the root (ginger) and the seed (mustard) can all be used. Spices can be used whole or ground. The advantage of whole spices is that they have a longer shelf life compared to the ground version. Some spices contain antioxidant components which slow down the removal of their essences it is also easier to remove whole spices from food when it is being served. Ground spices are in the powdered form. The advantage is that they are ore easily incorporated and uniformly as well.

Herbs

The second category of flavouring agents incorporates herbs, which comes from Latin, meaning grass. Herbs are defined as the leaves and stems of soft stemmed non-woody plants. Herbs and their use can be traced back to ancient Egypt, Greece and China. It would seem that they were originally gathered for culinary purpose, but like spices, they also have medicinal properties. Herbs can be categorized as fresh, dried, pickled or frozen.

Fresh herbs as the term denotes are used fresh without alteration, freshly picked. This does not mean that the cook needs to pick them for them to be called fresh.  Like cut flowers, they are available packaged from the suppliers.

Dried herbs are the same as fresh herbs, except they have the water content removed, which concentrates the flavour.

Pickled herbs are fresh herbs that are stored in brine.

Frozen herbs are either directly frozen or they may be blanched before freezing. Those that are blanched have a longer shelf life. Freeze dried herbs are also available. These are fresh herbs which have been freeze dried and then vacuum packed.

Fresh herbs are always preferred to dried herbs. The flavour seems to be more complex and complete. Dried herbs, which are not stale, deliver a more concentrated flavour. A rule of thumb is one teaspoon of fresh herbs is roughly equal to 3 teaspoons of fresh herbs. A frozen herb has a flavouring power similar to that of a fresh herb.

It should be noted that when working with cold foods, the product should sit for at least one hour in the refrigerator after the addition of either herbs or spices to allow for full release and combination of flavours. In the case of hot foods, flavouring can be added at the beginning, middle or at the end of the cooking time. Which is best, will be determined by the type of flavouring and the type of food. Most flavourings need heat and time for the release of their flavour. Fresh herbs take a very short time to release their flavour and therefore should ideally b added towards the end of the cooking time. Dried herbs can be added towards the middle of the cooking process.

Concentrated Flavoring Agents

Flavouring agents are concentrated in two ways. Extraction (oleoresins) or distillation (essential oils).

Oleoresins are extracts from herbs and spices that are usually subject to a vacuum. In the process, most of the solvent (alcohol) is removed. Essential Oil is stem distillation of the flavour and the aroma compounds in a herb or a spice. The disadvantage is that it lacks the flavour in the final oil. Some cooking oils such as olive oil and walnut oil can also be used as flavouring agents in salads, marinades and salsas.

Wines and Spirits

Wines and spirits have become a staple flavouring agent in almost all culinary repertories. There are two types of wines: Table wines and Fortified Wines.

Table wines are mainly produced from grapes but other fruit such as peaches and strawberries can also be used to make wine. Non fruit items like rice and rhubarb are also known to produce good wine. Fortified wines are those which have a spirit added to the wine and include brandy, Port and Sherry and these are used extensively in the flavouring of Desserts.

Wines have unlimited uses in the kitchen. They contribute not only flavour to the dish but also acidic value, salt and sugar. The alcoholic content of wine contributes little to the flavour, yet is a major consideration for the stability of sauces and salad dressings. Wines need to be reduced before addition to a prepared product, particularly products containing egg and dairy products. Reduction of the wine reduces the acid content and evaporates the alcohol, leaving the flavour intact. The alcohol and acid in raw wine creates a natural heat, which can cause coagulation of the protein in egg.  Wine reductions are essential for soups and sauces, and can be used for braising, de glazing and sauteeing. Wines can contribute a great deal of flavour to marinades and salad dressings. In most cooking applications, it is not necessary to use the finest wine. Most often an inexpensive wine will do. A fine quality wine may be required for a delicate sauce or dessert.  The contribution of wines and spirits to sorbets, desserts and pastries is major.

Flavoured Oils

Certain Oils like Olive Oil and Mustard Oil do impart flavours to the food. They will enhance the salad to which they are added or are also used in pickles in certain parts of India.

Vinegars

Vinegar, technically, is a by product of the fermentation of wine. Vinegar comes from the French term meaning sour wine. Commercially distilled vinegar contains 5% acetic acid which gives vinegar its characteristic flavour. Cider vinegar is made from apples and is native to America. Distilled vinegar is colourless and quite strong and is often used in pickling. Malt vinegar is made from malted barley and has a caramel colour. Rice vinegar, used predominantly in Japan and China could be red white or even black in colour. Wine vinegar is obtained from wine or sherry. Flavoured vinegars are common these days and flavours such as herbs (tarragon, dill, rosemary) fruits  (lemon, raspberry), flowers (rose petal) and vegetables (horseradish) are added to the vinegar.

Vinegar was originally use as a preservative. However, it is now being used as an aromatic complement to the food.  When flavouring with vinegar, be sure to taste constantly to avoid over seasoning. In hot foods, add the vinegar towards the end of the cooking time. Flavour will not be lost due to evaporation. Vinegar has great value in the kitchen when used with understanding and caution.

Marinades

The final flavouring agent is the marinade, a seasoned liquid in which a product is soaked for the purpose of flavouring as well as tenderizing.         A marinade consists of four parts:

-The oil

-The acidic content

-The seasoning and the flavours and

- Flavour enhancers

There are two types of marinade: The cooked marinade and the raw marinade.

The cooked marinade is first prepared over heat before the product is added to it.

Raw marinade is a mixture used without being cooked, thereby requiring longer exposure of the product and is used to change the texture of the product.

When marinating for longer periods of time, it is best to refrigerate the product. Otherwise marination takes place best at room temperature. The thicker the product, the longer it will take to marinate. Meats take a longer time to marinate than fish.

To conclude, one must understand that seasonings and flavourings are the cornerstones of culinary excellence. A sure sign of inexperience is over seasoning or under seasoning a dish. Traditional boundaries have been relaxed in recent years, allowing you to take a classical dish and adding a subtle twist to it. In this manner a good chef develops his own style. One of the greatest assets of culinary art is that it is limited only by your imagination.

 

 

VERNON COELHO

ihm mumbai

2009-2010